He sat at the edge
Of the water, board
Balanced at his side.
The sand crunched noisily
Beneath his feet.
The water kissed the beach
Every minute or two, he
Took a breath, awaiting
His turn, finally
The waves broke the surface
Glass shattering , he tossed the board
Into the water, sending tendrils of wet
down his face
He pedaled
Faster, faster
Anxiety and excitement seized
Him, no time for fear
The wave grew
A giant cloud blotting out the sun
He tensed, eyes closed
ready for the moment
The wave became a mountain
framed in dense white foam
He snapped up, ready, poised
It enveloped him, a wet embrace
Of the water, board
Balanced at his side.
The sand crunched noisily
Beneath his feet.
The water kissed the beach
Every minute or two, he
Took a breath, awaiting
His turn, finally
The waves broke the surface
Glass shattering , he tossed the board
Into the water, sending tendrils of wet
down his face
He pedaled
Faster, faster
Anxiety and excitement seized
Him, no time for fear
The wave grew
A giant cloud blotting out the sun
He tensed, eyes closed
ready for the moment
The wave became a mountain
framed in dense white foam
He snapped up, ready, poised
It enveloped him, a wet embrace